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---page index 85 page 86---
FOOD HISTORY
84
The people of Kashmir always had a 
distinctive history and myth, language 
and literature, art and architecture, 
 culture and tradition.
for poets, artists and dreamers, 
and for less gifted, more ordinary 
mortals as well. Surrounded by three 
Himalayan ranges – the Karakoram, 
the Zanskar and the Pir Panjal – 
and majestic snow-covered peaks, 
its 
idyllic 
panoramic 
splendour 
draws people from the world over 
to the region. Every season brings 
new vistas – spring, when the air is 
heady with the fragrance of a million 
ÂS[IVW FPSWWSQMRK SR XVIIW WLVYFW
and creepers; summer and autumn, 
with their vivid colours and mellow 
fruitfulness; and winter, magically 
painting the landscape in pristine 
shades of white.
Legend has it that the valley of 
Kashmir was once a large lake. In it 
lived a demon who was killed after 
the lake was drained with the help of 
Brahma’s grandson, Kashyap, and the 
Goddess Parvati. Parvati is supposed 
to have killed the demon by dropping 
a mountain on him. This legendary 
mountain is believed to be Takht-i-
Sulaiman – also called Shankaracharya 
hill – and forms the familiar backdrop 
to the city of Srinagar.
History and myth, language and 
literature, art and architecture, culture 
and tradition are distinctive to the 
people of Kashmir, but these aspects 
are also closely intertwined with and 
integral to the story of the Indian 
subcontinent. It was in this valley 
that Buddhism reached its zenith, 
Hinduism extended its frontiers into 
Shaivism and Shaktism, and Islam 
acquired a new meaning through 
XLI TVEGXMGI SJ 7YÁWQ /EWLQMV LEW
been a melting pot of a multifaceted, 
Dhaniwal Korma: 
a mild aromatic 
korma that is 
garnished with a 
large quantity of 
fresh coriander.
 
---page index 86 page 87---
The Taj Magazine
85
Kashmir has been a melting pot of a 
multifaceted, unique and harmonious 
cultural blend. Taken together, it has 
been called kashmiriyat.
unique and harmonious cultural 
blend. Its versatile cultural forms, 
fairs and festivals, rites and rituals, 
seers and sagas, cuisine and language, 
all with roots embedded in antiquity, 
speak of unity in diversity and an 
unparalleled cultural cohesion called 
kashmiriyat.
The scenic beauty of Kashmir is 
only rivaled by its cuisine, which offers 
ERMRÁRMXIERHWYQTXYSYWZEVMIX]SJ
both vegetarian and non-vegetarian 
delicacies. Perhaps nowhere else in 
-RHME GER SRI ÁRH JSSH EW YRMUYI
and elaborate, offerings that pamper 
the taste buds of the most fastidious 
gourmands. It is born of the marriage 
of the rich cultural heritage of the 
PERH ERH HMZIVWI MRÂYIRGIW SR MX
from Hindu, Buddhist and Afghan to 
Mughal, Sikh and British. Kashmiri 
cuisine is of two distinct types: 
wazwaan, the food of the Muslims, 
and butta, or the Pandit fare. Both 
WLEVIEPSZISJPEQFYWMRKE[SSHÁVI
to cook mouth-watering delicacies 
that have much in common. What is 
evident is that both have been greatly 
MRÂYIRGIH F] XLI ZEVMSYW WX]PIW SJ
cooking of the people who inhabited 
the area. The main difference is that 
the Pandits do not use onions and 
garlic, while Muslims incorporate 
both in good measure.
Both Pandit and Muslim cuisine 
relies 
totally 
on 
local 
produce. 
Kashmiris are insatiable meat eaters 
and have developed a number of 
classical dishes based on mutton, 
ÁWLERHGLMGOIR+MZIRXLII\XIRWMZI
MRÂYIRGI SJ%JKLERMWXER 4IVWME ERH
Rista: cardamom-
infused meat balls, 
pounded by a wooden 
mallet, cooked 
with saffron, mawal 
cockscomb Åower, 
fragrant spices and 
rich lamb stock.
 
---page index 87 page 88---
FOOD HISTORY
86
The wazwaan is an elaborate and 
sumptuous ritual, a feast served to an 
honoured guest. Not just a meal, it is a 
veritable ceremony.
Central Asia on Kashmir, its cuisine 
uses turmeric, dried ginger, fennel, 
cloves, cardamom and to top it all 
the much-prized saffron which grows 
here in abundance. Nuts, dry fruits 
ERH WSQI PIEJ] ZIKIXEFPIW EPWS ÁRH
their place in the local cuisine.
According 
to 
popular 
belief, 
when Timur invaded India in the 
ăXL GIRXYV] LI FVSYKLX [MXL LMQ
 WOMPPIH [SSHGEVZIVW [IEZIVW
calligraphers, architects and cooks 
from Samarkand, who settled in the 
valley of Kashmir. The descendants of 
these cooks, the wazas, are considered 
to be the master chefs of Kashmir. 
Waan in Kashmir means ‘shop’. A 
wazwaan is literally, therefore, a cook 
shop or restaurant.
 In practice, however, the wazwaan 
is an elaborate and sumptuous ritual, 
a feast served to an honoured guest. 
This lavish hospitality must be fully 
appreciated by the guest, for it is not 
just a meal, but also a ceremony. Days 
of planning and hours of cooking 
go into the preparation and serving 
of a wazwaan. Normally restricted to 
special occasions and celebrations 
at home, the wazwaan experience 
Ghushtaba: the dish that 
signals the end of the 
wazwaan service. Hand 
pounded boneless lamb 
l balls Åavoured with 
green cardamom seeds, 
cooked in mild stock-
based yoghurt gravy with 
green cardamom, fennel 
and dry ginger powder.
 
---page index 88 page 89---
The Taj Magazine
87
The wazas’ recipes are secret, locked 
away in their heads, passed on from 
generation to generation by word of 
mouth and example.
begins with table settings for groups 
SJ JSYV WIEXIH SR XLI ÂSSV XS WLEVI
the meal served on a large metal 
plate called a trami. It begins with 
the ritual washing of hands in a 
basin called a tash-t-nari, which is 
taken around by attendants to allow 
each diner to wash their hands with 
warm water. Then the tramis arrive, 
each heaped with Kashmiri rice, 
accompanied by seekh kababs, methi 
maaz, tabakh maaz, waze kokur – this 
MWNYWXXLIÁVWXGSYVWI=SKYVXERHE
variety of chutnies, like dodh al, doon 
chetin, zirish chetin, gand chetin are 
served separately in small earthen 
pots. Choice dishes are presented, 
one after the other, each made with 
fresh local produce. The animals 
used are slaughtered ceremonially 
and expertly according to Muslim 
custom, and the waza (chief cook) 
personally supervises the preparation 
of each dish that emerges from his 
kitchen. Every ingredient for the 
meal is handpicked and much effort 
ensures that each dish is a culinary 
masterpiece. 
The 
wazas’ 
recipes 
are secret, locked away in their 
heads, passed on from generation 
Rogan Josh: the original 
dish from the valley. 
Mixed cuts of lamb 
cooked with Kashmiri 
red chilis, mawal 
cockscomb Åower, 
saffron, turmeric, garlic 
and green cardamom 
Änished with a sprinkle 
of black pepper. 
 
---page index 91 page 92---
FOOD HISTORY
90
Marchwagan Korma: 
marchwagan means 
red chillis in the 
Kashmiri language. 
This red hot Äery 
korma is a Äne 
example of using 
fragrant spices and 
garlic to make a 
wonderful dish to be 
accompanied with 
local Kashmiri rice.
 

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---page index 85 page 86---
FOOD HISTORY
84
The people of Kashmir always had a 
distinctive history and myth, language 
and literature, art and architecture, 
 culture and tradition.
for poets, artists and dreamers, 
and for less gifted, more ordinary 
mortals as well. Surrounded by three 
Himalayan ranges – the Karakoram, 
the Zanskar and the Pir Panjal – 
and majestic snow-covered peaks, 
its 
idyllic 
panoramic 
splendour 
draws people from the world over 
to the region. Every season brings 
new vistas – spring, when the air is 
heady with the fragrance of a million 
ÂS[IVW FPSWWSQMRK SR XVIIW WLVYFW
and creepers; summer and autumn, 
with their vivid colours and mellow 
fruitfulness; and winter, magically 
painting the landscape in pristine 
shades of white.
Legend has it that the valley of 
Kashmir was once a large lake. In it 
lived a demon who was killed after 
the lake was drained with the help of 
Brahma’s grandson, Kashyap, and the 
Goddess Parvati. Parvati is supposed 
to have killed the demon by dropping 
a mountain on him. This legendary 
mountain is believed to be Takht-i-
Sulaiman – also called Shankaracharya 
hill – and forms the familiar backdrop 
to the city of Srinagar.
History and myth, language and 
literature, art and architecture, culture 
and tradition are distinctive to the 
people of Kashmir, but these aspects 
are also closely intertwined with and 
integral to the story of the Indian 
subcontinent. It was in this valley 
that Buddhism reached its zenith, 
Hinduism extended its frontiers into 
Shaivism and Shaktism, and Islam 
acquired a new meaning through 
XLI TVEGXMGI SJ 7YÁWQ /EWLQMV LEW
been a melting pot of a multifaceted, 
Dhaniwal Korma: 
a mild aromatic 
korma that is 
garnished with a 
large quantity of 
fresh coriander.

---page index 86 page 87---
The Taj Magazine
85
Kashmir has been a melting pot of a 
multifaceted, unique and harmonious 
cultural blend. Taken together, it has 
been called kashmiriyat.
unique and harmonious cultural 
blend. Its versatile cultural forms, 
fairs and festivals, rites and rituals, 
seers and sagas, cuisine and language, 
all with roots embedded in antiquity, 
speak of unity in diversity and an 
unparalleled cultural cohesion called 
kashmiriyat.
The scenic beauty of Kashmir is 
only rivaled by its cuisine, which offers 
ERMRÁRMXIERHWYQTXYSYWZEVMIX]SJ
both vegetarian and non-vegetarian 
delicacies. Perhaps nowhere else in 
-RHME GER SRI ÁRH JSSH EW YRMUYI
and elaborate, offerings that pamper 
the taste buds of the most fastidious 
gourmands. It is born of the marriage 
of the rich cultural heritage of the 
PERH ERH HMZIVWI MRÂYIRGIW SR MX
from Hindu, Buddhist and Afghan to 
Mughal, Sikh and British. Kashmiri 
cuisine is of two distinct types: 
wazwaan, the food of the Muslims, 
and butta, or the Pandit fare. Both 
WLEVIEPSZISJPEQFYWMRKE[SSHÁVI
to cook mouth-watering delicacies 
that have much in common. What is 
evident is that both have been greatly 
MRÂYIRGIH F] XLI ZEVMSYW WX]PIW SJ
cooking of the people who inhabited 
the area. The main difference is that 
the Pandits do not use onions and 
garlic, while Muslims incorporate 
both in good measure.
Both Pandit and Muslim cuisine 
relies 
totally 
on 
local 
produce. 
Kashmiris are insatiable meat eaters 
and have developed a number of 
classical dishes based on mutton, 
ÁWLERHGLMGOIR+MZIRXLII\XIRWMZI
MRÂYIRGI SJ%JKLERMWXER 4IVWME ERH
Rista: cardamom-
infused meat balls, 
pounded by a wooden 
mallet, cooked 
with saffron, mawal 
cockscomb Åower, 
fragrant spices and 
rich lamb stock.

---page index 87 page 88---
FOOD HISTORY
86
The wazwaan is an elaborate and 
sumptuous ritual, a feast served to an 
honoured guest. Not just a meal, it is a 
veritable ceremony.
Central Asia on Kashmir, its cuisine 
uses turmeric, dried ginger, fennel, 
cloves, cardamom and to top it all 
the much-prized saffron which grows 
here in abundance. Nuts, dry fruits 
ERH WSQI PIEJ] ZIKIXEFPIW EPWS ÁRH
their place in the local cuisine.
According 
to 
popular 
belief, 
when Timur invaded India in the 
ăXL GIRXYV] LI FVSYKLX [MXL LMQ
 WOMPPIH [SSHGEVZIVW [IEZIVW
calligraphers, architects and cooks 
from Samarkand, who settled in the 
valley of Kashmir. The descendants of 
these cooks, the wazas, are considered 
to be the master chefs of Kashmir. 
Waan in Kashmir means ‘shop’. A 
wazwaan is literally, therefore, a cook 
shop or restaurant.
 In practice, however, the wazwaan 
is an elaborate and sumptuous ritual, 
a feast served to an honoured guest. 
This lavish hospitality must be fully 
appreciated by the guest, for it is not 
just a meal, but also a ceremony. Days 
of planning and hours of cooking 
go into the preparation and serving 
of a wazwaan. Normally restricted to 
special occasions and celebrations 
at home, the wazwaan experience 
Ghushtaba: the dish that 
signals the end of the 
wazwaan service. Hand 
pounded boneless lamb 
l balls Åavoured with 
green cardamom seeds, 
cooked in mild stock-
based yoghurt gravy with 
green cardamom, fennel 
and dry ginger powder.

---page index 88 page 89---
The Taj Magazine
87
The wazas’ recipes are secret, locked 
away in their heads, passed on from 
generation to generation by word of 
mouth and example.
begins with table settings for groups 
SJ JSYV WIEXIH SR XLI ÂSSV XS WLEVI
the meal served on a large metal 
plate called a trami. It begins with 
the ritual washing of hands in a 
basin called a tash-t-nari, which is 
taken around by attendants to allow 
each diner to wash their hands with 
warm water. Then the tramis arrive, 
each heaped with Kashmiri rice, 
accompanied by seekh kababs, methi 
maaz, tabakh maaz, waze kokur – this 
MWNYWXXLIÁVWXGSYVWI=SKYVXERHE
variety of chutnies, like dodh al, doon 
chetin, zirish chetin, gand chetin are 
served separately in small earthen 
pots. Choice dishes are presented, 
one after the other, each made with 
fresh local produce. The animals 
used are slaughtered ceremonially 
and expertly according to Muslim 
custom, and the waza (chief cook) 
personally supervises the preparation 
of each dish that emerges from his 
kitchen. Every ingredient for the 
meal is handpicked and much effort 
ensures that each dish is a culinary 
masterpiece. 
The 
wazas’ 
recipes 
are secret, locked away in their 
heads, passed on from generation 
Rogan Josh: the original 
dish from the valley. 
Mixed cuts of lamb 
cooked with Kashmiri 
red chilis, mawal 
cockscomb Åower, 
saffron, turmeric, garlic 
and green cardamom 
Änished with a sprinkle 
of black pepper.

---page index 91 page 92---
FOOD HISTORY
90
Marchwagan Korma: 
marchwagan means 
red chillis in the 
Kashmiri language. 
This red hot Äery 
korma is a Äne 
example of using 
fragrant spices and 
garlic to make a 
wonderful dish to be 
accompanied with 
local Kashmiri rice.

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